Friday 08 - Monday 11 January– Sampson’s Cay, Exumas Bahamas. 15 miles.

Hola Dudes,

It's been a while since last blogging. It appears that we may have a problem with not only time but dates. All the following posts are in non-chronological order.

Plenty of Kaliks and Bahamian WiFi can do that to you...

After nearly three weeks on the hook and mooring balls we were ready for some luxury in a Marina. From time to time we need to fill up water, diesel and gasoline tanks, charge the batteries to 100%, take care of some internet business, eat in restaurants and take long showers.

Chris Parker, the weather Guru whom we listen to on our SSB radio receiver at 06:30 nearly every morning, promised another front with a NW component, front number 5. Very few places in the Exumas offer good protection at anchor from the W or NW. Normally this is not a problem since prevailing winds are NE or E.

Knowing the front was coming we headed down to Sampson’s Cay for a few nights in a Marina.

Saturday we dinghied up to Rachel’s Bubble Bath on Compass Cay and had The Office and Rambunctious over for dinner on Querencia. That night Front 5 starts blowing in – good call to stay at Sampson Marina!!

Sunday chill out and watch movies and catch up on the blogging business.

Sleepy sharks off Q's stern...



In like Flynn...

Sunday 03 - Thursday 07 January– Warderick Wells, Exumas Bahamas. 15 miles.

Repaired the toilet in the rear head, ongo pongo. This is one of my absolute favorite jobs on the boat and hence I had been procrastinating for a couple of weeks (we do, after all, have two heads on the boat, so no hurry required…)

Well it wasn’t too bad, after half an hour or so the pump assembly was replaced, all the mess cleaned up and no cuts on my hands or arms – yippee!

While I was in a boat project mood I thought I may as well make use of this spurt of energy while it lasted, so:

• Installed additional solar powered lamps.

• Installed 2 more fishing rod holders

• Replaced bulbs in front navigations lamps.

After all this hard yakka – it was definitely time for coldie! Found a Presidente (DR Beer) in the fridge, inhaled it and opened another one…

With a promise of picnic and beers, Maria forced Jorgen to go on several strenuous hikes around the island traversing a crusty sharp moonlike landscape.

No Hutias were spotted…but there was plenty of evidence that the little critters were active and ate well.

In comes Front 4 – Warderick was the right decision!! Sustained 25 to 30 kts from NW, we need to sacrifice a goat or something and ask the god of wind to take a vacation, preferably not in the Bahamas

Choc Ice...



Beached Whale...



I think I need a haircut...



Shouldn't have mentioned the haircut to Maria Scissorshand...



Brazil Nuts...



The Great Divider...

Wednesday 30 December – Saturday 02 January– Big Major’s spot, Exumas Bahamas. 15 miles

The place to be for New Years celebrations in the central Exumas is Staniel Cay Yacht Club on Staniel Cay, or so they say. We headed down there a day early to get ready for the festivities.

Pulled into Sampson’s Cay on the way down to get fill up our water and diesel tanks.
They were out of diesel but we filled the water tanks with 84 gallons at $0.50 per gallon.

Sampson’s Cay is a pretty resort type of island with a well protected marina and excellent facilities.

Anchored on the west side of Big Major Spot which is also called Piggy Beach on account and the wild (?) pigs that freely roam the beach.

On New Years day another front (Front number 3) with a NW component (very unusual, the prevailing winds during a front is N or NE) which made for another bumpy couple of nights at anchor, here we go, rock and roll folks.

After having been on the move constantly for the last 2 months, we felt and need to slow down for a few days and smell the roses (or the Hutia droppings) we also knew that the another front with W components were coming in a couple of days so we decided to head back to Warderick Wells and treat ourselves to 4-5 nights on a mooring ball in a beautiful and very protected place. ( Front number 4)

We got a mooring ball assignment on Saturday and left big Major’s at 10:00 and headed north. This decision turned out to be a bit optimistic since it was still blowing 20-25 kts from, you guessed it, the North. It turns out the sea state on the Bahama Banks is similar to the one on our home waters Chesapeake Bay, short and choppy seas, and rough as a badgers arse.

After slamming into 4-5’ steep waves with short periods for about an hour we got sick of the slamming and the water over the bow and said “Unable” and turned back. Having received a good spanking from Mama Nature, we returned with our tails firmly between our legs and re-anchored the boat at Big Majors. Where are my ruby slippers when I need them?

Sunday we made a second attempt of escaping westerly exposure. Having better luck this time we headed north, again with mild winds a calm sea. Arrived in Warderick Wells at 1:00 snagged a mooring and opened a couple of cold Kaliks!

Finally some relaxation and ready for Front number 4

Staniel Cay Yacht Club...



Pet Sharks at Staniel docks...



Departure and Arrival termainal at SCIA (Staniel Cay International Airport, no kidding they fly to Ft Lauderdale...)



Bahamian TSA at work ... Welcome to de islands, Mon...



Don't worry.. Be Happy...



Evening light...

Monday 28 – Tuesday 29 December– Little Halls Pond Cay, Exumas Bahamas. A few miles

We anchored outside Johnny Depp’s private island for a couple of nights. The approach to the island is a bit hairy as one heads thru a 40’ wide gap between Bell Island and a major sand bar. Should only be attempted in good conditions and light.

The anchorage itself is rather narrow and at one time we swung towards a sand bar and our rudder touch the sandy bottom. We had to re-anchor and move 30’ towards the middle of the deeper water. Better sorry than safe as we say in Smaland.

No signs of Johnny the Depp. He had two mooring balls installed at the island and Maria amused the park rangers by stating that she would photograph Johnny’s balls before leaving. (They looked like all the others we had seen in the park)

Eye BALL navigation...



View from Q at anchor...



Johnny D's beach...

Saturday 26 – Sunday 27 December– Warderick Wells , Exumas Bahamas. A few miles

Headed down to Warderick Wells were the Exuma Land and Sea Park head quarters are located. The Exuma Park is 22 miles long and 8 miles wide, consists of quite a few islands and fishing is not permitted within the park itself. The northern mooring field at Warderick contains about 20 mooring balls. One must request a mooring ball for the current day or the next day by hailing the park at VHF channel 09 at 09:00 in the morning, so it helps if you are within radio range!

The mooring field is a pristine setting between small cays and is protected in nearly all wind directions. This place is stunning.

Headed into the beach to pay for the mooring and then hiked up to Boo Boo Hill, what a view of the moorings from there.

Maria was sick on Sunday so we mainly hung around the boat and did very little on Sunday. I wish I had some pictures of Maria flushing her sinuses with the “Netty Pot” – very entertaining stuff! – (Jorgen you are twisted mate)

North Mooring field at Warderick Wells... Tricky navigation...



Boo Boo Hill... Mementos from visiting cruising boats...



The Geico Gecko...

Thursday 24 – Friday 25 December– Hawksbill Cay, Exumas Bahamas. 0 miles

We sailed south for a couple of hours to arrive at the northern mooring field at Hawksbill Cay. Hooray, escape from rock and roll for a while. The entrance is a little tricky with only 6’ of water at low tide. We got in all right and hooked one out of 4 mooring balls. Took the dinghy into a beautiful beach and hiked thru to the other side of the uninhabited island. The flotsam and jetsam on the Sound side were crazy.

Dinner was had on Querencia that night and in Irish / Swedish tradition we exchanged Christmas gifts!

Christmas morning we met with Dream Seeker and Silver Heels III on the beach and consumed great home cooked rum cakes and bread wash downed with locally brewed Kaliks.

Christmas dinner was had aboard Dream Seeker and consisted of Ham, Bahamian Mac & Cheese and Swedish mustard herring (Senaps sill).

Christmas Eve sunset at Hawksbill...



At the end of the rainbow...



Hiking the Hawksbill...

Tuesday 22 – Wednesday 23 December - Normans Cay, Exumas Bahamas. 0 miles

Cold front No. 2. Two uncomfortable days at anchor at Normans. Bobbing up and down and left and right, rock and roll has a new meaning – folks this wasn’t in the brochure! Wind was howling at a sustained 25 kts along with roley poley 2 footers from the nor easterly swell, yuck.

Oh Oh... Front approaching...

Monday 21 December –Nassau, New Providence, to Normans Cay Exumas Bahamas. 35 miles

Early Monday morning we headed south towards the Exumas. There were a string of sail boats on the horizon, intending to make a break for the beautiful Exuma chain of islands. This 35 mile passage involves crossing the treacherous Yellow Banks, a piece of water strewn with nasty Coral heads and dragons. According to general wisdom one should not attempt to cross the Yellow Banks on an overcast day as the cloud cover makes it difficult to see the coral heads. Well, you guessed it, we crossed on an overcast day anyway. Maria was on the bow and guided us thru the banks via our two way headsets. We gingerly tip toed through the gauntlet and made it safely to the other side.

We arrived in Norman’s in the afternoon and dropped the dinghy from foredeck and got it ready for dinghy ops into the island’s interior. This place is riddled with history and was made famous by the notorious drug lord Carl Lehder in the 70’s & 80’s.

We went for a walk along the airstrip and checked out some of the local bullet ridden architecture ( from the Lehder days) followed by lunch at McDuff’s, run by the local Jack Russell.

Ray at Nassau Atlantis aquarium...



McDuff's at Normans Cay... Conch and Kaliks!



NIA .. Norman's International Aero Puerta...